One of the best parts of the Breguet Type XXI is the movement – that is a bit more than your regular triple register chronograph. What’s also very important to mention is that, unlike most (or all that I can recall) Breguet Type XXI watches, the movement – with its attractive machine-polished gold rotor – is observable via a sapphire crystal exhibition caseback window onto the back of the watch. Inside the watch is your very well-regarded in-house Breguet grade 584Q/2. This is the newest version of the caliber 584Q, which now includes an “inverted in-line Swiss lever” silicon escapement from the 584Q/2, compared to the metal straight-line lever escapement in the 584Q. This, of course, is not the first Breguet watch to use silicon components – and it is good to see the newest continue to embrace this technology, as it helps the moves perform better over time.The caliber 584Q/2 functions at 4Hz (28,800bph) with a power reserve of 48 hours. The automated movement offers the time, date, and flyback chronograph, along with a synchronized 24-hour hand which operates as an AM/PM index. The chronograph is also a central minutes and central seconds chronograph, so there are just two centrally-mounted chronograph hands to quantify both of these segments of time. The subdials around the face are used for the running moments of the time, chronograph hour index, and the synchronized 24-hour hand (which among other things makes putting the time simpler). The movement in performance and function is really fine, and easily a highlight for possessing this or other Breguet Type XXI watches.
Henry Ford once said: “If I had asked people what they wanted, they would have said faster horses.” But the inventor trusted his instincts, and rather than faster horses, he gave us the car. The first Ford Model T rolled off the production line in 1908, thanks to the conviction of a man who didn’t listen (only) to his clients.
One hundred and ten years later, Ford’s observation is still as relevant as ever. It was the inspiration behind Baume & Mercier’s main announcement at the SIHH 2018. The company’s first in-house movement, the Baumatic, was inspired largely by what was coming back to the workshops for after-sales servicing. The aim was to identify the main issues with the movements they had been using, and solve them. It might seem obvious, but it wasn’t straightforward. Baume & Mercier is not a manufacture, so it had no input into the development of the calibres it uses.
Like a true aviator watch, the rotating bezel in the case goes bi-directionally, and sporting comfort along with legibility is quite excellent. The Breguet Type XXI remains among my own grail watches, and I wonder what version I’ll end up becoming at a certain stage in the future. The Breguet 1160 Marie Antoinette pocket watch is actually one of the most striking and fascinating horological objects of our contemporary times. In many ways, this watch and the story around it’s formed the basis for what keeps me in love with timepieces and why I began aBlogtoWatch at the first location. This article is maybe not true a “hands free,” as nobody but a select few “watch handlers” in Breguet are even allowed to touch what is possibly the most valuable modern pocket watch of all time. In 2013, an estimated value for the Breguet 1160 pocket watch was set at US$30 million. Its true value could be much more but will probably never be analyzed during my life, as this item remains a permanent part of their Breguet brand.Even though manufacturers such as Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin now have more complicated pocket watches, the Breguet 1160 Marie Antoinette remains the 5th or 6th most complex pocket watch in the world, although it’s based on the first Breguet 160 pocket view, that held the position since the most complicated watch ever made for approximately 100 years later being completed in 1827 (45 years later it was initially commissioned in 1782). My buddy and fellow watch lover John Biggs chronicled the contemporary and past history of this Breguet Marie Antoinette see in his book here.
I covered the narrative, with a lot more background information regarding the first Breguet Watches Greece Replica 160, its own story, reduction, and eventual recovery. If you’re interested in this particular story, I highly recommend checking out that article because the story of the mention 160 Marie Antoinette timepiece is one which all watch lovers should know.More so, a range of elements of this background, both long past and contemporary, of the 160 are still to a degree mainly unknown to the general public. It is actually a pure coincidence that Breguet unveiled the Breguet 1160 Marie Antoinette pocket view only weeks after the first 160 was discovered. Now, the Breguet 160 Marie Antoinette “first” pocket watch is on screen in the L. A. Mayer museum in Jerusalem, Israel. It’s more than likely the very precious horological object in existence.I mention the aforementioned coincidence because most individuals wrongly thought that the brand released the Breguet 1160 Marie Antoinette due to the re-discovery of the 160. This is wrong. Breguet had been covertly working on replicating the 160 for about five years up to that point. The contemporary Breguet brand is known because of its first founder Abraham-Louis Breguet. Often called the “grandfather” (or father) of contemporary watchmaking, the Breguet brand continued for many generations through various relatives following his death.In the 1980s Breguet was introduced to life in its own modern iteration through a new group of investors mostly separated from the first Breguet household (though, today, parts of their first Breguet family are part of their new again). It was watch maker and designer Daniel Roth who shaped the contemporary look of the new wrist watches being inspired by historical Breguet pieces. Just something like 5,000 Breguet watches and clocks were produced during Abraham-Louis Breguet’s lifetime.
It’s 2018, and Baume & Mercier is still not a manufacture. But it has brought three elements together: the manufacturing capacity of ValFleurier (a movement production company in the Richemont group), its own Research & Innovation division, and membership of the Microcity innovation cluster.
On the strength of these synergies, Baume & Mercier issued a brief for a watch movement that would achieve four things: it would be anti-magnetic, more precise, with a better power reserve and requiring less servicing. The brand’s positioning implies a fifth requirement: an affordable sales price.
Clifton Baumatic © Baume et Mercier
The Baumatic meets every one of these criteria. Magnetic sensitivity has been greatly reduced thanks to a procedure that is now increasingly common: the use of a silicon escapement – pallet, pallet wheel and balance spring. The pallet is made by Valais company Sigatec, and the balance spring is produced by a newcomer to watchmaking – Tronics, a subsidiary of TDK.
The balance spring uses Twinspir technology, which incorporates two layers of silicon aligned at 45° to each other, sandwiched together with a layer of silicon dioxide, which also provides temperature compensation. The Baumatic movement can also withstand magnetic fields of up to 1500 Gauss, which is ample for everyday use.
An impressive power reserve
The calibre owes its precision to a number of factors, which include the Twinspir technology, but it also has a new gear train design and optimised movement architecture. The Baumatic also complies with COSC chronometer certification.
But for the end client, probably the most obvious improvement will be the increased power reserve. Here there are no half measures – Baume & Mercier guarantees a full five days! These 120 hours are supplied by a completely redesigned barrel which is just 0.6 mm wider. The space occupied by the Nivaflex mainspring is optimised, but the number of coils (15) is the same as you’ll find in most production calibres. Unofficially, the Baumatic can even go as high as 130 hours of power reserve, with excellent isochronism for 80 hours – at which point most other movements would already have given up the ghost!
The rear of the watch shows a view of the movement’s foundation plate that has some magnificent engravings of the nighttime sky complete with all the ground. The image makes it look like our world sits right next to some type of nebula made up of watch equipment. Breguet Watches Watch Snob Replica is able to make that rear plate larger to appear to take up the vast majority of the case from the 5347 since the plate occupies nearly all of the situation back with all the gears themselves consuming less space in the center. The backplate is larger so that the movement does not seem small on the giant 5349 case. It isn’t even possible that revealing the gears there’s necessary, but that is done for aesthetic reasons to further suggest the mechanical nature of this ultra-status item.Breguet really presented three brand new “on-order” Breguet Double Tourbillon watches for 2016, and each of them focuses on a hand-operated guilloche machine-engraved dial. This Breguet Double Tourbillon 5349 has blue tooth within the dial, which makes for a lovely contrast, as gloomy always goes well with diamonds and platinum. This is also, in my most humble of opinions, a visual improvement on the all-diamond-set dial of at least one preceding 5349 model.For comparison sake, in this article you will see both the Breguet 5347 along with the bigger Breguet Double Tourbillon 5349 in my wrist. Though the 5347 makes for a stately, albeit comfy daily double tourbillon wearing experience, the Breguet Double Tourbillon 5349 is what you need in your wrist when assembling the generals. In addition to being 50mm broad, with big lugs, the case is 18.65mm thick – that isn’t that terrible, really. On the fitted alligator strap using diamond-set Breguet folding buckle, the Breguet Double Tourbillon 5349 is able to sit snugly from the wrist. You just need to be familiar with lugs that may stand out beyond the edges of your wrist. I would be willing to bargain with that size issue to go through the continuing majesty of wearing a watch that apparently does the impossible by speaking louder than me despite lacking a mouth of any sort.
More reliable, less maintenance
Finally, the service interval has been optimised through better use of lubricants. The movement uses four oils, three of which were completely redeveloped for the Baumatic. Unusually for a modern watch, oil is even used in the escapement. Use and wear will show whether this innovation stands the test of time.
The inaugural Baumatic collection will be a Clifton (40 mm). There will be two versions, one COSC-certified and the other not. The former will be priced at €2,600 incl. VAT, the latter €2,450 incl. VAT (€2,600 on a steel bracelet). A fourth version will be offered with a gold bezel, for €3,100 incl. VAT. These models will be available in the new year. As an added bonus, given that the movement measures 28.2 mm in diameter for 4.2 mm deep, a women’s version is a distinct possibility.
The back of the watch shows a view of the movement’s foundation plate which has some stunning engravings of the night sky complete with the ground. The image makes it seem like our world sits directly alongside a sort of nebula made up of watch gears. The quality of the imagery is great. Breguet Watches Greece Replica is able to create that rear plate bigger to appear to take up the vast majority of the case from the 5347 as the plate occupies most of the situation back together with the gears themselves taking up less space in the center. The backplate is larger so that the motion does not seem small on the giant 5349 case. It is not even likely that showing the gears there’s necessary, but this can be done for aesthetic reasons to further suggest the mechanical nature of the ultra-status item.Breguet really presented three brand new “on-order” Breguet Dual Tourbillon watches for 2016, and each of these focuses on a hand-operated guilloche machine-engraved dial. This Breguet Dual Tourbillon 5349 has blue enamel over the dial, making for a beautiful contrast, as gloomy always goes well with diamonds and platinum. In addition, this is, in my most humble of opinions, a visual improvement on the all-diamond-set dial of at least one previous 5349 model.For contrast attraction, in this article you’ll see both the Breguet 5347 and the bigger Breguet Double Tourbillon 5349 in my wrist. While the 5347 makes for a stately, albeit comfortable daily double tourbillon wearing experience, the Breguet Double Tourbillon 5349 is exactly what you want in your wrist when assembling the generals. Along with being 50mm wide, with large lugs, the circumstance is 18.65mm thick – that isn’t that terrible, actually. On the fitted alligator strap with diamond-set Breguet folding buckle, then the Breguet Dual Tourbillon 5349 is able to sit snugly from the wrist. You just need to be comfortable with lugs that might stand out past the edges of your wrist. I’d be willing to deal with that size problem to experience the ongoing majesty of wearing a watch that apparently does the impossible by speaking louder than me despite needing a mouth of any kind.
Clifton Baumatic : the plus factors © Baume & Mercier
Our David Bredan recently visited Breguet’s fabrication in Switzerland and reports on the remarkable area filled with “spinning engines” which produces these dials. They are operated by hand and need delicate finesse and years of training to have the result right. You may observe a combination of patterns and techniques to the dial of this Breguet Heritage 5410, such as a beautiful wave-style pattern on the periphery of the most important round dial to help fill out the tonneau-shaped dial window.Like I mentioned, I am sure not everyone will like this dial layout, but I personally think it’s beautiful. Breguet uses marginally larger than anticipated blued-steel pomme-style hands that seem great. This is also one of those rare cases where luminant is used on the palms in a non-sports watch by the brand. Joining some Art Deco themes with the distinctive Breguet new DNA, the Breguet Heritage 5410 instance and dial is something uncommon and trendy in the brand.A trade-off of the curved caseback seems to be the omission of a exhibition display caseback, that can be a bit of a shame. Breguet completes their watches and moves so nicely it may be considered disappointing not to see the movement. The balance spring is generated from silicon, typical of many modern Breguet calibers – which contributes to overall performance and accuracy over time.Attached into the Heritage 5410 is a black or brown alligator strap fitted to a matching gold deployant clasp. There is a somewhat sporty yet old-world regality to a bit like this Breguet which I believe should help it appeal to the ideal sort of buyer capable to both afford its price, and to regularly pull it off within their lifestyle. Cost for its Breguet Heritage 5410 benchmark 5410BR/12/9VV in 18k rose gold is $27,700 while the reference 5410BB/12/9VV in 18k white gold is $28,700.